Sunday, March 9, 2008

My First Pattern!

I finally finished writing (and tweaking) my first pattern for one of my bags! It's knit in the round with Lamb's Pride and Noro Kureyon. These yarns do not felt at quite the same rate, but I've found that as long as you alternate the rows of Lamb's Pride with the rows of Kureyon, the smaller Lamb's Pride squares fit neatly within the larger Kureyon ones.

I tried to write this clearly enough for anyone, whether experienced with entrelac or not, but just in case there is a good tutorial here which should be helpful. The first couple of times I read an entrelac pattern I couldn't figure out how to do it. I found that I just needed to pick up the needles and do what the pattern said and it all started to make sense. I welcome any questions or comments!


Peacock Entrelac Bag


Finished Size: 12" high, 9" diameter, 28" circumference

Materials:

Noro Kureyon (NK): 3 skeins in color #147
Lamb’s Pride Worsted: 1 skein each
Blue Heirloom - A
Kiwi – B
Jaded Dreams – C
Blue Flannel – D
(You should use whatever colors please you! The second time I made this bag I used Noro Kureyon in color #102 and only three shades of Lamb’s Pride with it.)

Size 11 circular needles
Size 10 circular needles
Size 10 double point needles
Large Tapestry Needle
Approximately ½ yard fabric for lining, if desired.

ssk – slip both st knit-wise, knit these 2 together
sssk – slip all st knit-wise, knit these 3 together

Cast on 96 st with A on size 11 needles. Place marker, join, and switch to size 10 circ needles
Row 1-2: purl
Row 3-8: *k2 with A, p2 with NK, repeat from *.
Row 9-10: k with A
Row 11-13: *k4, yo, k2t, k2, repeat from * all the way around. Yo’s are where the holes
for the handles will be later.
Row 14: knit

Begin base triangles (still working w/A), working one triangle at a time as follows:
*Row 1: k2, turn work
Row 2 and all wrong side rows: purl back to end of triangle being worked (number of purl stitches should equal number of knit stitches in each previous row.)
Row 3: k3
Row 5: k4
Row 7: k5
Row 9: k6
Row 11: k7
Row 13: k8
Do not turn. First triangle is complete so repeat from* until 12 triangles are formed. Each triangle should have 8 st at its base so everything should come out nice and even.

Now for the fun part!
First Row of Squares** is worked with NK. Turn work to wrong side.
*Pick up purl-wise 8 st down along first triangle, spacing st as evenly as possible. (This will feel very awkward, especially the first st, but go with it. The first square on each tier is always the hardest.)
Slip last picked up st to left needle, p2t, turn. Work square as follows:

Row 1 and all odd (right side) rows: k8, turn
Row 2: p7, p2t
Row 4: p7, p3t
Row 6: p7, p2t
Row 8: p7, p3t
Row10: p7, p2t

(Note: Each time you p2t or p3t you are purling one stitch of the current color you are knitting with one or two stitches of the last row of base triangles worked, effectively joining them on one side.)
Do not turn. First square is complete so repeat from* until 12 squares are formed. First row of squares complete.

Second Row of Squares is worked with B. Turn work to right side.
*Pick up knit-wise 8 st along first square, spacing st as evenly as possible. (Again, this will feel awkward on the first square.)
Slip last picked up st to left needle, ssk, turn. Work square as follows:

Row 1 and all odd (wrong side) rows: p8, turn
Rows 2 and 4: k7, ssk
Row 6: k7, sssk
Rows 8, 10, and 12: k7, ssk

(Note: Each time you ssk or sssk you are joining one stitch of the current color you are knitting with one or two stitches of the last row of squares worked, effectively joining them on one side.)
Do not turn. First square is complete so repeat from* until 12 squares are formed. Second row of squares complete.

Third Row of Squares is worked with NK. Turn work to wrong side.
*Pick up purlwise 8 st along first square, spacing st evenly.
Slip last picked up st to left needle, p2t, turn. Work square as follows:

Row 1 and all odd (right side) rows: k8, turn
Rows 2 and 4: p7, p2t
Row 6: p7, p3t
Rows 8, 10, and 12: p7, p2t
Do not turn. First square is complete so repeat from* until 12 squares are formed. Third row of squares complete.

Fourth Row of Squares worked same as second row of squares, but with C.

Fifth Row of Squares worked same as third.

Sixth Row of Squares worked same as second, but with D.

Seventh Row of Squares worked same as third.

Eighth Row of Squares worked same as second, but with A.

Begin Decreasing Rows. Continue alternating yarns. Color order isn’t crucial, but NK must be worked every other row of squares. Switch to double point needles when necessary.

Ninth Row of Squares worked like the third, except as follows:
Only pick up 7 st and instead of working 12 rows only work 10. In order to decrease the number of rows you just need to work in an extra p3t, so instead of one on row 6, do one on row 4 and another on row 8.

Tenth Row of Squares worked like the second, except as follows:
Pick up 6 st and only work 8 rows. To decrease the number of rows you just need to work in an extra sssk, so do one on row 2 and on row 6.

Eleventh Row of Squares worked like the third, except as follows:
Pick up 5 st and only work 6 rows. Work in extra p3t: one on row 2 and another on row
6.

Twelfth Row of Squares worked like the second, except as follows:
Pick up 4 st and only work 4 rows. Work in extra sssk: one on row 2 and another on row
4.

Thirteenth Row of Squares worked like the third, except as follows:
Pick up 3 st and slip the last picked up st to left needle, p3t, turn.
Row 1: k3, turn
Row 2: p2, p3t
Cut yarn leaving a tail of about 2 feet. Thread yarn on large needle and pick up all remaining st on needles. Pull together tightly and loop through a few times to secure. Stand back and admire the pretty star design you’ve just made!

Handles. Knit two lengths of I-cord at least 3ft long each.

Felting. Thread a cotton cord through the holes for the handles to keep them from closing up during felting. Wash bag and i-cord in a zippered pillow case in warm water. It will probably take 2-3 times through the wash, but check periodically. The Noro Kureyon will take longer to felt and its squares will stay larger, but because the yarns were alternated, they still “fit” together nicely.

Finishing. Block bag on a canister covered with a towel or on some other similar shaped item. I usually do a little tugging here and there to make sure the squares are really square. If you plan on lining (which I recommend) this is a good time to cut out your fabric for it. Cut out a circle and a rectangle to form a cylinder to fit your bag (don’t forget to cut enough for seam allowances.) When bag is dry, thread i-cord through the holes for the handle. If holes are too snug, carefully snip them open with sharp scissors. Sew in lining under the holes.

**They are really rectangles at this point but will transform into squares after felting.

6 comments:

Yarn Thing said...

You know I just LOVE your bags!

Would you want to put this pattern on the Purse Workshop? Let me know if you would be interested :-)

xoxox
Marly

Carolyn said...

I am new but was trying to figure out the math. I think the first row of squares you only want to pick up 7 purl stitches. This seems to work out for me. Thanks for the pattern.

Could you post the total yardage of yarn you used. I plan on doing all in the same varigated yarn.

Thanks again!!
Carolyn (mnpickle)

Ginny said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Anonymous said...

I love this pattern, but I'm about to knit the "2nd Row of Squares" and something's not adding up right. I pick up 8 stitches knitwise and then as I do all the ssk and sssk's according to the pattern, I run out of stitches before I get to row 8. What am I missing here?

knittin gin said...

Hi "Anonymous"

I'm so happy to hear you like my pattern. I'm sorry it's taken a while to answer but I needed to refresh my memory on the details a bit so I can give you accurate info. Fortunately I keep one of these bags in progress just so I can answer questions like this.

Okay so first of all with your new color B, as soon as you pick up the 8 st it's important to slip 1 of these picked up st back on to the left hand needle. When you do your ssk your slipping 1 st in color B and 1 st in color A and knitting them together. You should now have 7 st on the left needle. Turn your work and then:

Row 1: purl 8, turn
Row 2: k7, ssk, (leaving 6st on left needle) turn
Row 3: p8, turn
Row 4: k7, ssk, (5st on left needle) turn
Row 5: p8, turn
Row 6: k7, sssk, (3st on left needle) turn
Row 7: p8, turn
Row 8: k7, ssk, (2st on left needle) turn
Row 9: p8, turn
Row 10: k7, ssk, (1st on left needle) turn
Row 11: p8, turn
Row 12: k7, ssk, (0st on left needle) "Square" is now complete!

I hope this helps. Please feel free to contact me on Ravelry if you like, I'm knittingin there too.

Sue Nelson said...

Quite tricky to follow passing stitches to the left (and to the right) when we don't all knit right/left handed. I am trying to work out how to adjust for UK knitting style.

Sue